The transfer of wave information from offshore to the nearshore area

Once the offshore wave information are available, the task of the coastal engineer is to devise a reliable method to transfer the information to the coast and to the location of interest. Together with physical modelling in some special cases, numerical wave modelling is the standard tool for this task. In this paper we discuss the various elements and formulations of the model that affect the accuracy of the results, namely the description of the bottom friction, the definition of the grid and the consideration of the input wind field. To validate the procedure we make use of a dataset collected during two winter campaigns at Holderness, on the East coast of England

Keywords:

coastal zone , marine parameters , wave statistics , wave modelling , shallow water