Investigation of the effects of eddy viscousity in estimating undertow for beaches protected by sea walls

Recently, statistical methods based on the integration of the functions of distribution of the probability of bed sediment velocity and the amount of displacement of sediments and profile changes of the beaches are widely used by researchers of coastal science.In this study, using the effects of turbulence through the eddy viscosity parameter, especially on shore protected beaches by seawalls and irregular (random) waves, with statistical methods, the objective is to provide a numerical model for estimating undertow.Various models have been proposed to examine sediment transport and substrate changes of sandy beaches that are widely used. In most of these models, turbulence due to the waves breakdown is a parameter called eddy viscosity which is applied to the equations commonly used in analytical models.The main purpose of the present study is to apply the eddy viscosity parameter in hydrodynamic formulas and sediment transport on beaches protected by seawalls, which ultimately aims to investigate existing models in this field.Finally, by comparing the predicted results with the previous equations in this field and especially the measured values, the accuracy and efficiency of the model can be checked

Keywords:

undertow , eddy viscousity , sea walls , profile evolution , sediment transport